I Spent 10 Days Exploring Saudi Arabia. Here’s Why You’ll Want To Add It To Your Bucket List
It was 2018 when I first came across a news article on the new Red Sea Project, announced by HRH Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman bin Abdulaziz of Saudi Arabia. The multi-billion dollar endeavor was part of Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 plan to diversify its economy and open the country to global tourism for the first time in decades. As a luxury travel lover, I was fascinated by it and immediately added the country to my bucket list. One problem was that Americans weren’t allowed to travel to the country. Decades of hostile relations with world powers, war, an oppressive regime, particularly in regards to women, and other documented incidents condemned and sanctioned by global leaders didn’t place Saudi at the top of any “where to go” lists. Even the Black Eyed Peas faced intense backlash from human rights groups after announcing a concert in the country in 2018. But the tide was beginning to turn.
By September 2019, Saudi Arabia began issuing non–religious tourist visas to visitors from 49 countries, including the United States, for the first time, and construction had already started on new luxury resorts in the Red Sea. Since then, strides have been made in women’s rights and a concerted effort to change Saudi Arabia’s global image. While no one would argue that there was still much more to be done, I figured now was the time to see what Saudi Arabia had to offer me.
From the moment I landed in Riyadh, I could tell things would be different from what I’ve been told all these years. Yes, women were covered in their traditional abayas, hijabs, and niqabs (and yes, there are differences), but they walked alongside other local women who wore none. Men and women greeted each other and me with kindness and smiles, and the airport alone was filled with all the comforts of home, like Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts, Footlocker, and Bath and Body Works. Driving through the streets, I soaked in the towering office and apartment buildings, sprawling medical complexes, malls, and hotels. I also took note of the ongoing construction, a sign of all that was still yet to come.
I headed to the 2nd annual Riyadh Fashion Week in Diplomatic City for my first night in the city. For some of the designers, many of whom were women, this event was the first time they could showcase their talent publicly, despite having been designing pieces for years. Sitting alongside some of Saudi’s fashion power players and influencers (yes, influencers get invited to fashion week there, too, and front row!) I marveled at designs that, while not as risque as those seen in New York or Milan, seamlessly showed off the creativity and progression of Saudi. In a country that would have at one point in time bristled at the showing of backs and shoulders, the runways were filled with colorful, form-fitting, edgy, and elegant designs that reflected the style of many of the women who turned up to see them. At the afterparty, a Saudi woman spun the latest hits as guests danced the night away, sipping complimentary cocktails, alcohol-free.
It was a great introduction to a destination still unknown to much of the world, and it excited me for what I would be seeing over the next ten days. From capital city vibes to the untouched luxury of the Red Sea and cosmopolitan streets of Jeddah, I got a taste of the new Saudi Arabia. Here’s my guide to the Middle East’s latest hotspot so that you can make a plan, catch a flight, and indulge in the luxurious newness too.
How to Get There
Several major airports and international airlines fly to Saudi Arabia’s capital of Riyadh (RUH) and the port city of Jeddah (JED). From the East Coast, Emirates, Delta, and even the country’s national airline, Saudia, all offer nonstop flights that can take you to the desert oasis in about 12 hours. To get to the Red Sea, you must connect in Riyadh or Jeddah to a Saudia or Fly Dubai flight that will take you to Red Sea International Airport (RSI) in about an hour. From the Red Sea airport, it is a short drive to the pier, where you can take a speedboat, yacht, or seaplane to your hotel.
A visa is needed to enter the country. While U.S. citizens can receive a visa upon arrival, applying for an e-visa before your trip is strongly recommended. Fees differ based on nationality, with the total for U.S. citizens being roughly $107, which includes the visa, medical insurance, and transaction fees. The visa is valid for multiple entries for a year from its issue date and allows for stays of up to 90 days.
What to Wear
Saudi Arabia has indeed been historically known for its restrictive and conservative religious laws and beliefs, especially those regarding women. However, in recent years, the country has made major strides and shifts to become a more progressive nation for its people and those around the world interested in visiting and learning more about their culture. While you will still see both men and women dressed in their cultural religious attire, you will see just as many dressed in “regular” clothing. Women are no longer legally required to cover their heads or wear abayas. Visitors will see the old and new ways of being existing side by side throughout the country. Some women will wear jeans and tees with or without their headwraps; others will wear abayas while out with family but wear suits and dresses to work—today, it’s their choice. This does not mean the country has progressed so much that the style of dress acceptable in the States is welcomed. You should still avoid short shorts, dresses, or tops that show off just a tinge of too much skin and cleavage. While there, my wardrobe consisted of jeans, leggings, tank tops, Bermuda shorts, maxi dresses, kaftans, Fe Noel robes, and Diarrablu dresses. Cute, stylish, and respectable is the name of the game.
Where to Stay
To say tourism in Saudi Arabia is booming would be an understatement. The government is in the middle of a multi-billion dollar goal to make its mark in the luxury tourism industry. What that means for travelers is that there will always be a supply of places to stay and luxuriate. In the capital, the St. Regis Riyadh should be your choice. The first St. Regis to open in the country and the only hotel located inside Via Riyadh, a seemingly endless mall filled with designer shopping, international cuisine, and a cinema, this hotel is in the heart of it all. The cultural district of Diriyah is a short Uber ride away, and Jax, the warehouse arts district, is a must-visit. Inside, the St. Regis Riyadh boasts 83 rooms and suites, a 13,000 square foot spa (Getting a massage? Ask for Sulis. You’re welcome), Jackie Restaurant, named after former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and serving Mediterranean fare, tasty mocktails at the St. Regis Bar and nighttime entertainment at Stella Sky Lounge.
You’ll find The Jeddah EDITION along the corniche in the country’s gateway city. The property combines contemporary design with a heritage that can be seen in everything from the eye-catching art to the Persian rugs. With 52 rooms and 11 suites, the hotel is perfect for those who want the amenities of a large resort with a more boutique feel. Each room has a balcony, many with panoramic views of the F1 track and Jeddah Yacht Club. The Roof is a Mediterranean-style oasis with a pool surrounded by sunbeds and cabanas draped in bougainvillea. For dining, the Lobby Bar is the hotspot for locals and guests looking to people watch and unwind, The Denis a secluded speakeasy-esque haven for cigar lovers to relax and Maritime is pure perfection, so be sure to try the shrimp dumpling with caviar, mie goreng noodles and a refreshing Saffron Spritz, made with sparkling wine, clementine, honey, ginger and saffron.
The Red Sea will probably be the biggest draw to Saudi Arabia. Part of a massive project by the Saudi government, the untouched, remote Red Sea area is a world-class luxury travel destination that will include 50 hotels with 8,000 rooms and more than 1,000 residential properties across 22 islands once it is complete in 2030. There are four resorts: Six Senses Southern Dunes; St Regis Red Sea Resort, Nujuma; a Ritz-Carlton Reserve; and Shebara Resort, which are already welcoming guests. Several more will be open by the end of 2025, including a Miraval hotel and two planned Four Seasons resorts. I checked out the St. Regis Red Sea and Nujuma, located a five-minute boat ride apart and open to guests of both. This is it if you’re looking for the Maldives in the Middle East. Stunning overwater villas, powder sand beaches, colorful coral and marine life, numerous casual and fine dining restaurants, the absolute best multi-cultural staff, and views that no camera will ever do justice are just some of the reasons to make reservations yesterday.
What to Eat
Like any other major destination, you can find an abundance of foods from around the world in Saudi Arabia. Italian, Mediterranean, Filipino, Indonesian, and more can be found. I spent my time outside the hotels focusing on more Middle Eastern dishes. Northwest of Riyadh, in the suburb of Diriyah, Takya, which served up personal faves like meat mento (dough filled with lamb, onions, and spices), kabuli rice with chicken (braised chicken with saffron basmati rice), and mastic cheesecake, was my introduction to Saudi cuisine. In Jeddah, I stopped by one of the oldest seafood restaurants in the city, Al Basali Restaurant. This family-owned spot is small and has no frills, but it is hands down some of the best seafood I’ve had, and the staff and locals were amiable.
What to Do
Long before the Saudi Arabia that we know today was founded in 1932, the land that the Kingdom is on was inhabited by people with a rich culture and history. With that said, there is plenty to do on your visit. Are you looking to learn more about Saudi’s history and culture? The Saudi National Museum and the Addoho Neighborhood (which goes back 200 years) in Riyadh, the historic Al-Balad site, and the Tayebat Museum in Jeddah are a great place to start. Ready to throw it in the bag? Kingdom Centre and BLV Mall have all the Gucci, Dior, and Chanel your heart desires. In addition to day-to-day activities like go-karting and movie theaters, if you’re in town during Riyadh Season (October-March) or Jeddah Season (June-August), you will find a large entertainment hub filled with local and global restaurants, shops, theatrical performances, concerts, games and more.
What to Expect
People from New York to Rwanda and Indonesia live, work, and vacation in Saudi Arabia. For those who have explored the UAE a time or two, think of it more like Abu Dhabi and Sharjah than Dubai—open and welcoming to tourists but focused on retaining the cultural vibes. Saudi Arabia is a dry country, so there will be no drunken late nights. However, that doesn’t mean that locals aren’t out until the sun rises—they’re just doing it sober. Despite the lack of alcohol, the lounge and bar scene is still huge in cities like Riyadh and Jeddah. Both men and women enjoy delicious mocktails, zero-proof alcohol cocktails (seriously, they are really good!), bites, and shisha on luxurious rooftops and inside top-rated hotel bars, just like you would anywhere else. There are also many malls for luxury shopping, yacht clubs, fairs, go-karting, and even F1 racing, which I hope to check out next year. Once you leave the city and make your way to the Red Sea, you’ll find island resort vibes with outstanding food and water activities, and coming soon, beach clubs, golf courses, luxury marinas, and more. In short, expect a vibrant melting pot of a country and a destination that needs to be at the top of your travel wish list in 2025.
